A well pump rarely fails without warning signs first. Pressure that fades over a few seconds, a pump that clicks on and off every couple minutes, water that sputters and spits air, or a breaker that trips every time the pump kicks on: these are all real symptoms with specific, identifiable causes, not just "the pump is bad."
What we actually check first
Short-cycling (pump turns on and off rapidly). This is almost always a waterlogged pressure tank, not the pump itself. The tank has an internal air bladder that separates air from water; once that bladder fails, the tank can't hold pressure anymore and the pump has to restart every time a faucet runs. Left alone, this wears out a perfectly good pump years before its time, since a submersible pump is only rated for so many start cycles over its life. A waterlogged tank is a straightforward swap, usually far cheaper than a pump replacement, and it's the first thing we rule in or out.
Pump runs constantly, low or no pressure. Could be a worn impeller, a stuck check valve, a leak in the drop pipe (the pipe running from the pump up the casing), or simply a pump that's aged out. Submersible pumps in this area typically run 8 to 15 years, averaging 10 to 12, depending on how hard the well works and how much sand or sediment is in the water. We pull the pump when the evidence points that direction, not before.
Worn impeller and failed check valve look similar but aren't the same problem, and telling them apart matters for cost. A worn impeller shows up as a gradual decline in maximum pressure over months, the pump is still doing its job, just less effectively as the internal parts wear from sand and mineral content in the water. A failed check valve shows up differently: water drains back down the casing between uses, so the pump has to re-prime and run for several seconds every time a faucet opens, even for a quick use, not just when demand is heavy. That distinction alone can be the difference between a straightforward valve swap and a full pump pull.
Humming or tripped breaker with no water output. Often a seized motor, a bad capacitor, or a wiring or grounding fault, sometimes from a lightning strike (East Texas gets its share of severe spring storms). This is diagnosed electrically before anything gets pulled out of the ground, since pulling a pump that didn't need to come out just adds labor cost for nothing.
Muddy, sandy, or gritty water. Sometimes a sign the well itself is silting in, sometimes a sign of a failed or corroded well screen letting sediment through. This one is worth an honest conversation about whether you're looking at a repair or you're at the point where the well itself needs attention, not just the pump.
Why the diagnosis matters more than the parts
Two houses with "no water" can have completely different problems: one needs a $200 pressure switch, the other needs a full pump pull. Guessing wrong means paying for a pump pull you didn't need, or worse, replacing a switch and having the same call again in two weeks because the actual problem was never touched. We check the straightforward, inexpensive causes (pressure switch, capacitor, waterlogged tank, breaker) before ever recommending you replace the pump itself.
If the pump genuinely is done, see our well pump replacement page for what that job actually involves. If this has been building for a while rather than happening today, our well pump service page covers the maintenance side that prevents most of these calls in the first place.
Licensing, for what it's worth
Water well pump installation and repair work in Texas is licensed through TDLR (the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation), with separate license endorsements for single-phase and three-phase pump work. It's worth asking anyone working on your well system whether they're licensed, since this is regulated work, not a handyman job.
FAQ
My pressure is fine at first, then drops after a minute or two. What's that?
Classic waterlogged pressure tank symptom. The tank delivers its stored pressure quickly, then the pump has to catch up and can't keep pace, so pressure sags mid-shower or mid-hose- use. Usually a tank issue, not a pump issue, and one of the more affordable fixes on this list.
Is a humming pump a pump that's about to die, or something else?
Humming with no water movement usually means the motor isn't turning, which points to a seized bearing, a bad capacitor, or an electrical fault rather than the pump simply being worn out. Worth a diagnostic call rather than assuming the worst.
Can a lightning strike really take out a well pump?
Yes. A near strike can travel through grounding and wiring into the pump's control box or motor. It's a real and fairly common cause of sudden pump failure in this area given how often East Texas gets significant spring and summer storms, and it's one of the first things worth ruling out if a working pump goes dead all at once with no gradual warning signs.
Get a Free Quote
Get a Free Quote